LOVE IKAT—Learn More about it
Ikat in a Nutshell
Ikat is a resist dyeing technique where the yarn is first dyed per the pattern and then woven using a handloom.
Ikat has an intentional bleed and blurry lines which is one key ways of identifying ikat.
Ikat often comes in Geometric Patterns.
Why Choose our Samasta Ikat Clothes?
Other than appreciating the time taken to create the beautiful fabric, Ikat is a beautiful fabric that breathes well. Our Samasta line is created with superfine ikat cotton. They drape well and come in flattering cuts. The fabric is not transparent and so dresses can be made without requiring a lining. The fabrics also last a long time and as we use these fabrics in classic cuts you can wear your Samasta Ikat garment for several years.
History of Ikat
Ikat is one of the oldest known textile patterns in the world that spans across multiple cultures. It is unclear weather Ikat origintated India or Indonesia or Africa. It has existed in India since the 6th Century. Ikat is also found in Guatemala, Japan and Uzbekistan.
Ikat comes from the comes from the Malay-Indonesian word for ‘tie’.
The ancient art of Ikat dyeing and weaving was once used to symbolize wealth and prestige because of the time and intricate skill involved in the weaving process.
In India Ikat is woven in Orissa, Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh.
Originally Ikat was popular in sarees in India such as Pochampally ikat or Patola ikat saris which were treasured and passed on from one generation to the next. But today, ikat is not just limited to traditional attire. It is used for funky footwear and bags, the textile technique is being used by designers in trendy fashions.
Today Ikat has been revived by Indian designers and the textiles are popular with celebrities as well.
Who are some of the big Designers who have used Ikat?
Anita Dongre, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Suket Dhir, Gautam Gupta, among others, and internationally, Keith Brewster, Ralph Lauren, Giambattista Valli, have used ikat for their fashion lines.
How to Recognize the Types of Ikat
Since ikat became fashionable on high street, it started becoming mass produced and many prints were designed to look like it. Some prints look very similar to handwoven ikat fabric. One quick way to determine real ikat from faux is to look at the reverse side. If the back is a solid color, it is printed.
Learn more about Ikat Dyeing and Types of Ikat
ikat is the dyeing of patterns created using a resist dyeing process before the weaving takes place. The patterns are created on either the warp or weft twine, or on both. The pattern isn’t created by painting or printing, but by protecting parts of the yarn with a resist by binding it before the dyeing process, removing the resist after dyeing, possibly repeating this process multiple times, and then using this yarn in the warp, weft, or both. Warp ikat is commonly found, weft ikat less so, and double or compound ikat the most complicated of all. It’s slow, laborious work that takes a skilled artisan to master.
The weavers make use of silk and cotton, which are dyed in banded patterns and hand-woven to create an attractive pattern. There are three kinds of ikat — warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat. For precise patterning, weavers typically use warp ikats. With weft ikats, the pattern is less exact. In the case of double ikat, both warp and weft are resist-dyed prior to weaving.
In warp ikat, only the warp threads are wrapped to resist the dye and create the pattern. Bundles of threads are tied together and patterned exactly the same; these bundles may consist of two to twelve threads and the woven fabric would show these small groups of identical patterns. The warp may be two colors, as in the Another identifier look along the length, If the design runs parallel to the selvedge edge and the vertical lines are a little blurred (due to the shifting of the warp yarns), it’s probably warp ikat.
In weft ikat, only the weft yarns are wrapped to resist the dye and form the pattern creating distinct horizontal lines. Weft ikat allows for more fluidity of design than warp ikat. During weaving, it is critical to position the weft yarn precisely in relation to the preceding weft shot and to all others that will follow. Any unplanned shifting will alter the design.
The process of creating double ikat is extremely complicated and time-consuming. Undyed warp and weft yarns are counted, bundled, wrapped, and folded with precision in order to produce the pattern. The warp and weft yarns are wrapped and dyed to coincide; the resulting design has feathery edges on both sides of the intersection, as well as top and bottom. You can see this in the Japanese Ikat. Some patterns, such as the Patola from Gujrat require unwrapping and rewrapping between dyebaths.